Somewhere in the Middle

From Luxor to Cairo :: Final Destination

After we left Karnak, we made our way to the beautiful Luxor Temple.

Luxor Temple was founded in 1400 B.C. and is dedicated to Amun, a creator deity often fused with the sun-god Ra to become Amun-Ra.

Each year, to ensure the flooding of the Nile which was necessary for prosperity, the statues of Amun, Mut (goddess of war), and Khons (the moon god) were sailed down the river to Karnak for a great festival.

The entrance to the temple is quite extraordinary as you pass two grand statues of Rameses. Originally, there were six statues - four seated and two standing; I can only imagine how dramatic this must have looked in ancient times. Also surviving is a 25-metre tall pink granite obelisk. It was one of a matching pair; in 1835 the other obelisk was taken to Paris where it now stands in the centre of the Place de la Concorde.

The main part of the temple - the colonnade and the sun court were built by Amenhotep III, and a later addition by Rameses II.

During the Late Period, the temple fell into disrepair. Alexander the Great claimed to have undertaken major reconstruction work "to restore it to the glory of Amenhotep's times" in the 320s BC. While Rome dominated Egypt the temple was converted into a centre for the Roman emperor cult.

By the time of the Arab conquest, the temple was largely buried underneath accumulated river silt, to the extent that the Mosque of Abu Haggag was built on top of it in the 13th century (much reworked since, but one of the minarets dates back to the original construction).

There is a doorway that leads out into thin air some 8 meters above the ground. I love the detail woodwork on the windows. Reminds me of something you'd see in Morocco.

Walking through Luxor Temple was fascinating. The hieroglyphics were beautiful.

What I found particularly interesting were the Roman stuccoes created on top of the Egyptian carvings since in Roman times parts of the temple served as chapels where local Christians were offered a final opportunity to renounce their faith and embrace the pagan state religion.

As you exit you see the road, known as the Sacred Way or Avenue of Sphinxes dating from the time of Nectanebo I in the 30th Dynasty.

Once we were done exploring Luxor Temple, we said goodbye to Mohammad and we met our Luxor rep who eventually took us to the airport. But before we left he dropped us off so we could have some free time to do whatever we choose. R & I went to a few shops to do some last minute shopping. I have to say R is an awful bargainer; he hates to bargain. R basically gives the seller his one offer which is also his final offer right at the beginning of the negotiations. I tried to coach him and explain how shopping was like a game - but he wanted nothing to do with it. A few days earlier R & I bought the same souvenir for S & F but because R started the negotiations first I ended up being totally taken! lol! I admit negotiating for a good price can be a bit intimidating at first but when you get into it it's actually pretty fun. Right before I left I wanted to buy Numeracy Grrrl a glass perfume bottle for watching C. I tenaciously bargained with the vendor. Of course throughout the process he acted like he was upset over my offers and I did the same explaining how this was my last day in Egypt - how could he possibly let me leave Egypt without a traditional perfume bottle. We were both pulling out all the stops. Going back & forth drove R absolutely crazy so much so that he left the shop and waited for me outside. lol! Towards the end we were negotiating over a $1 - I know it sounds ridiculous but you get caught up in the moment - but we eventually agreed on a price and then he became the sweetest man ever. lol!

We were getting quite hungry at this point so and were craving local, authentic Egyptian food but there weren't many restaurants to choose from so we went to Hilton and had a nice lunch.

Our Luxor rep arrived right on time and whisk us off to the airport where we caught a flight back to Cairo. At the Cairo airport we were greeted by another Lady Egypt rep who was absolutely wonderful - super friendly guy. The drive to our hotel took a bit longer than expected due to the heavy traffic but it seem to fly by since we were talking so much.

For our last night in Egypt, we stayed at The Marriott in Cairo which was absolutely amazing and because it was decorated for Christmas it looked even more spectacular with lights and poinsettias everywhere. I was amazed by how many people travel around the holidays. The hotel had a high level of security and the inside looked like a palace. As C would say... it was quite posh. lol! R & I were in heaven - comfy mattress and tons of fluffy pillows... We had a great night sleep.

The next morning we woke up bright and early to catch our flight back to Brussels. While we ate breakfast we ran into some of the ladies we had met at Abu Sembel. Many of them were ready to go home but R & I felt differently.

We both could have stayed for a few days - maybe relaxing by the Red Sea. ;) Next time. Visiting Egypt made me realize how fascinating and exotic other parts of the world can be. I know that this is just beginning for me. I hope to open many more doors - India, Jordan, China, Peru... because for me traveling isn't just a passion it's a way of life.

What Not To Wear in Egypt...

While walking around the Temple of Karnak we found many interesting characters to amuse us. 

Like look at Ms. Cheeky...

She was revealing a wee bit too much and yes even though her t-shirt says, "Red Sea" she didn't have to come to Luxor with her bathing suit cover up and her metallic fanny pack. lol! When I snapped this photo, a group of young Muslim women were pointing at her and having a good laugh.

Then we have Mr. No Shirt Required....

This is sooooo not an attractive look... it doesn't matter where you live. European men are big on capri pants and after living in Europe for over three years I admit I actually like capri pants on men BUT they have to be the right length and on the RIGHT guy. Take a look at his wife. I'm not sure if she's breastfeeding her baby or just holding him really close with that low cut tank.

R likes to call this next photo East meets West...

Then we have this lovely, earthy couple...

What ARE they wearing on their heads? They probably think they're being really cute wearing matching head sacs. But why? Are they growing dreads under there? Even on my worst hair day I wouldn't be caught wearing this! lol! And don't even get me started on their capris, especially his! lol!

Is it my imagination or are those shorts just a bit too tight?

 

Every time I look at these pants all I can think is, "Where's the circus?"

Now if this last photo was taken in the US, most people wouldn't think too much about it but because this is Egypt these outfits are just wrong. Part of visiting a country is respecting their culture and tradition and this is definitely NOT the way to go.

Ancient City of Thebes :: Karnak Temple

Dec. 14, 2009

Our last full day in Egypt began with an early morning check out. Leaving the cruise ship, where we had spent the past four nights was a bit sad... it meant our trip was coming to an end.

First stop of the day... Karnak Temple.

The Karnak temple complex is dedicated to the Pharoah Amun along with his wife Mut and their son Khons. Each of them have an area in the complex, of course the most impressive and largest belong to Amun.

Construction on the Karnak temple complex began in the 16th century BC and continued for a period up to 1300 years. This huge time span is one of the reasons this temple is so unique. During that time, approximately thirty pharaohs added their own personal touches to the construction enabling it to reach a size, complexity, and diversity rarely seen in other temples.

There are over 25 temples and chapels in the Karnak complex, including separate shrines for the three boats that took the statues of the gods on their annual trip on the flooding Nile.

As we entered the complex we passed the Ram-headed Avenue of Sphinxes, which was built to protect the Temple. It's quite a site as you walk pass these rams. 

This beautiful statue immediately caught my eye when we entered the main area. But one of the most impressive areas of Karnak is the Hypostyle Hall in the Precinct of Amun-Re, a hall filled with 134 massive columns arranged in 16 rows, the highest 70 feet tall, and each about 45 feet around. The hall covers an area of 64,586 sq ft.

R & I enjoyed exploring Karnak but it was really crowded. There were so many tourists and if there is one thing I dislike it's crowds. According to Mohammad, many of these tourists were Russians vacationing in the Red Sea; they come to Luxor for the day. From the way they were dressed they definitely look like they came straight off the beach.

Everyday... for the past 6 days, R & I have listened to intense and in depth explanations on Egyptian history and don't get me wrong it was fascinating but a person can only take so much. lol! Egyptologists study for years and are able to process this information slowly compared to hearing it all in one week. If Mohammad quizzed me one more time who Aton, Ra, Nut or Hathour was or even asked me to decode a hieroglyphic character I was sure my head was going to explode! lol! And I'm pretty sure R felt the same way.

So as we explored the complex, our fascination with the temple was slowly replaced with an interest in how people were dressed. We became Bill Cunningham from New York Times' On the Street. lol! We captured some very interesting shots which I will definitely share later in a separate posting because really these photos were so funny and they made us laugh so much they deserve their own post. lol!

The West Bank of Luxor

December 12, 2009

My morning on the top deck of the cruise ship was so relaxing I envisioned spending the evening outside under the stars. But after dinner R & I found it much too cold outside. It was much too windy. Even wrapping ourselves with towels wasn't going to do us any good. lol!

December 13, 2009

Our first stop of the day...Valley of the Kings. For nearly 500 years, the Egyptians built tombs for the kings and nobles of the New Kingdom on the West side of the Nile. The Egyptians believed in burying their dead in the direction of the setting sun which symbolized moving on to the next world.

Unfortunately, there is a "No Camera" policy so I don't have any photos of this incredible site. The security at both Valley of the Kings as well as the Queens was really relaxed. For many sites and exhibits in Egypt, you need to walk through security machines and for some reason they always went off on me. But I was never stopped or I should say I was never stopped when the security guards were males which was about 98% of the time. As the machines beeped, the guards casually waved me on. Sometimes the guards were too busy eating their lunch, reading the newspaper or talking to even notice. 

Once the tram dropped off at the tomb entrance, I couldn't help notice how I was blinded by the landscape. It was incredibly sunny; I could barely see without my glasses. It took some time for my eyes to adjust.

There are 63 tombs and chambers ranging in size. R & I went inside 4 of the tombs. Inside these tombs, are some of the most colorful and magnificent scenes I've ever seen. It was really incredible. 

Close by is the Valley of the Queens which is where the wives of the Pharaohs were buried in Ancient times. Along with the Queens, many princes & princesses were also buried here. We went inside two of the tombs which were much smaller than what we'd seen in the Valley of the Kings but still quite beautiful.

Next on our itinerary... Deir el Bahari to see the Temple of Hatshepsut, the fifth pharaoh of the 18th dynasty of Ancient Egypt. From a distance, the temple looks quite grand like it was craved out of the cliff.

The reliefs on the bottom level were beautiful.

Our final stop of the day was the Colossi of Memnon, two massive stone statues of Pharaoh Amenhotep III.  

Both statues stood as guards to the entrance of Amenhotep's mortuary temple - a massive cult centre built during the pharaoh's lifetime. 

Despite the statues being quite damaged they were still grand. I'm can only imagine how impressive they must have looked when they were intact.

As we made our way back to Luxor, we passed by some interesting little villages so I rolled down my window and took some random shots of everyday life.

And yes, that man is carrying a gun.

We ended our day with dinner on the ship, a little shopping, and a walk through the streets of Luxor. 

Many Egyptians approached us about going for a ride on an Egyptian Ferrari. lol!

Luxor Temple at night.

Temple of Horus

December 12, 2009

After cruising the Nile for a few hours, we made a stop in Edfu, a small city about 60km (37 miles) north of Aswan.

The temple at Edfu is dedicated to Horus since the area was believed to have been the site of the great battle between Horus & Set. Do you remember who Set was?

He killed Osiris, Horus' father out of jealousy. Osiris, Isis, and Set were brothers and sisters. Osiris married Isis - sibling marriages were a common occurrence during ancient times.  Once Set killed Osiris, Isis found Osiris' corpse and used it to give birth to Horus. Set & Horus have a long history of being at odds with one another.

Horus' temple is the second largest in Egypt and is considered to be one of Egypt's most beautiful and best preserved temples. Near the entrance there is an impressive granite statue of Horus. It's quite grand. Seeing me next to the statue gives you a better prospective on its size.

For centuries the temple was submerged (12 meters -39 feet) under sand and layers of river silt deposited by the Nile which helped in its preservation.

The temple's pylon is considered the highest among Egypt's surviving temples. It's 37 meters (121 ft) high and decorated with battle scenes. Nearly every surface is covered with carvings and hieroglyphics. The details are incredible.

The open courtyard with beautiful columns is where people gave offerings. I love the lotus flower designs at the top of the columns. If you look closely, you can see some traces of the original paint.

Inside the temple there are a number of small chapels that surround the sanctuary - each one dedicated to other Egyptian gods.

Below is the 'barque chapel' where a reproduction of the god's processional barque is displayed mounted on a sled.

According to Mohammad the original can be found at the Louvre in Paris.

By the entrance, there were walls inscribed with the Ankh symbol - key of life.

  

As we left the temple, I mentioned to Mohammad how I wished we could walk around the neighborhoods so I could capture some photos of everyday life. 

The streets we passed to arrive at the temple were full of life and I would have loved to wander through the streets. Unfortunately, we didn't have much time but Mohammad was sweet enough to ask our driver to drive slowly so I could take a few photos. 

My photos from this drive aren't very good - they're blurry & out of focus. But I have to remind myself that getting the perfect shot isn't what's important... For me these images capture the moment and the vibe of the city and that's all I need to bring me back to that very moment.

Cruising the River Nile

Experiencing Egypt was incredibly memorable. I saw so many amazing sights... every morning it was as if I had to pinch myself to remind myself that I was really there.

One of my favorite memories of my trip to Egypt was cruising on the Nile River. So peaceful & relaxing. The weather was perfect too. At times, the wind picked up and it got quite cold despite the constant warmth of the sun.  But I didn't mind. The chilliness kept most of the passengers inside the ship.

R & I loved it. After about an hour, R went back to the room to sleep; he wasn't feeling all that well and felt a cold coming on. But I basked in the sunshine for about three hours and watched life on the Nile pass me by. A lifestyle so simple and basic. I tried taking it all in and as I lay there I couldn't help but feel so very grateful for this experience. 

Animals grazing on the Nile River

Farmers working

Cows grazing on the Nile

Exploring the Temple of Kom Ombo

December 6, 2009 : Saturday

Our morning began with a tour of the Greco Roman Temple of Kom Ombo. This temple was built at the beginning of Ptolemy VI Philometor's reign around 180-145BC during the Ptolemaic dynasty.

The Ptolemaic dynasty was a Greek royal family which ruled Egypt during the Hellenistic period. Their rule lasted for 275 years, from 305 BC to 30 BC. During this time period, there was a fusion of the Ancient Greek world with that of the Middle East. 

All the male rulers of the Ptolemaic dynasty took the name Ptolemy. Even Ptolemaic queens, some of whom were the sisters of their husbands, were usually called Cleopatra, Arsinoe or Berenice. The most famous member of the line was the last queen, Cleopatra VII, known for her role in the Roman political battles between Julius Caesar & Pompey and later between Octavian & Marc Anthony.

The temple of Kom Ombo is unique because its double design meant there were courts, halls, sanctuaries and rooms duplicated for two sets of gods.

The southern half of the temple was dedicated to the crocodile god, Sobek, with Hathor (god of fertility and creator of the world) and Khonsu. 

Meanwhile, the northern part of the temple was dedicated to the falcon god Haroeris, also known as Horus the Elder, along with Tasenetnofret (the Good Sister, a special form of Hathor) and Panebtawy (Lord of the Two Lands). Are you confused yet? lol! I know we were! Trying to keep all these different gods straight was tough!

Take a look at the colors on this relief. I can only imagine how vibrant and bold it must have looked thousands of years ago. It's so incredible how the paint is still visible.

For my own sake I need to jot some notes down about these Gods. In a few years months days, I won't remember who these Gods are or what they represented! lol! These notes should help when I begin to work on my Egypt photo album.

• Sobek was the deification of crocodiles, who were deeply feared in the nation so dependent on the Nile River. Egyptians who worked or traveled on the Nile prayed to Sobek hoping he would protect them from crocodile attacks. The god Sobek was depicted as a crocodile or a man with the head of a crocodile. He was a powerful and frightening deity. In some Egyptian creation myths, it was Sobek who first came out of the waters of chaos to create the world. As a creator god, he was occasionally linked with the sun god Ra. Most of Sobek's temples were located in parts of Egypt where crocodiles were common.Some Sobek temples kept pools where sacred crocodiles were kept. These crocodiles were fed the best cuts of meat and became quite tame. When they died, they were mummified and buried in special animal cemeteries. Gradually, Sobek also came to symbolize the produce of the Nile and the fertility that it brought to the land. Sometimes the ferocity of a crocodile was seen in a positive light, Sobek in these circumstances was considered the army's patron, as a representation of strength and power. When considered a patron of the pharaoh's army, he was shown with the symbol of royal authority - the uraeus. Sobek was also shown with an ankh (the key of life) representing his ability to undo evil and cure ills.

• Hathor is an Ancient Egyptian goddess who personified the principles of love, motherhood and joy. She was one of the most important and popular deities throughout the history of Ancient Egypt. Hathor was worshiped by royalty and common people alike in whose tombs she is depicted as “Mistress of the West” welcoming the dead into the next life. In other roles she was a goddess of music, dance, foreign lands and fertility who helped women in childbirth. Hathor is commonly depicted as a cow goddess with head horns in with a sun disk & Uraeus. A Uraeus is the upright form of an Egyptian spitting cobra used as a symbol of sovereignty, royalty, deity,  and divine authority in Ancient Egypt.

• Khonsu  is another Ancient Egyptian god whose main role was associated with the moon. His name means "traveler" and this may relate to the nightly travel of the moon across the sky. Along with Thoth he marked the passage of time. Khonsu was instrumental in the creation of new life in all living creatures. At Kom Ombo he was worshipped as son of Sebek & Hathor. Typically, Khonsu is depicted as a mummy with the symbol of childhood - a sidelock of hair, as well as the menat necklace.He is sometimes shown wearing a falcon's head like Horus, with whom he is associated as a protector and healer, adorned with the sun disk and crescent moon.

• Horus is one of the oldest and most significant of the deities in the Ancient Eyptian religion who was worshipped from at least the late Predynastic period through to Greco-Roman times. "Different forms of Horuses are recorded in history and these are treated as distinct gods by Egyptologists. These various forms may possibly be different perceptions of the same multi-layered deity in which certain attributes or relationships are emphasized, not necessarily in opposition but complementary to one another, consistent with how the Ancient Egyptians viewed the multiple facets of reality. Horus the elder represented the god of light and the husband of Hathor. He also became the patron of the pharaohs, and was called the son of truth. Horus the elder was seen as a great falcon with outstretched wings whose right eye was the sun and the left one was the moon. The most commonly encountered family relationship describes Horus as the son of Isis& Osiris but in another tradition Hathor is regarded as his mother and sometimes as his wife. Horus served many functions in the Egyptian pantheon, most notably being the god of the Sky, god of War and god of Protection".

The temple of Kom Ombo became famous for its healing power and became a major pilgrimage site. Many people sought help & treatment by the priests. There was a scene on one of the back walls that was very interesting as it represents various surgical instruments.

I also found this calendar fascinating.

I really enjoyed the temple of Kom Ombo. I loved its location... right along the Nile River. Beautiful.

Before we left R's sunglasses, which he had just purchased the day before, fell apart as he was wearing them. lol!  It was really funny. And since we were at a temple, R decided to offer the gods his sunglasses. lol!

Felucca Ride on The Nile

Once we were back in Aswan, R & I had lunch aboard the ship we'd be cruising the Nile River for the next 3 nights. I've never been on a boat longer than a few hours so I didn't know what to expect. But I was pleasantly surprised. I was expecting a room the size of a little matchbox but our room was a great size. Plus we had a balcony which was a lovely surprise. I've been known to get sick on boats so having  fresh air in the room was absolutely wonderful.

R & I had a nice lunch on the cruise liner. We arrived late so there wasn't anyone in the dining room but us. Our waiter was a complete delight! Every night he presented R & I with a little brain teaser. When we'd come up with a solution R would say, "It can't be that simple!" and he'd continue to find another solution. These nightly puzzles drove R crazy! lol!

After lunch we met up with Mohammad and took a relaxing felucca ride and drifted on the Nile River for about an hour or so. It was absolutely lovely... watching all the other feluccas on the Nile while the sun began to set. Beautiful.

We ended our day with a quick visit to Kitchener's Island. The island is a little paradise filled withexotic trees and plants.

Flying Adventures :: Abu Simbel

Of all the sites I was scheduled to see in Egypt, Abu Simbel was the one I looked forward to the most. The photos I found online of Abu Simbel were just amazing. I'm not sure if Abu Simbel is on the list of "Places to See Before You Die" but if it isn't it definitely needs to be. It's an incredible site.

There are mainly two ways to get to Abu Simbel... the only first option is a 1hr. flight (from Aswan) and the second is to drive. The journey from Aswan to Abu Simbel is a long 3.5 hrs and the voyage begins around 4am. From what I understand there isn't much to see in the area so you're really just going to see Abu Simbel and an hour or two later you turn around and drive another 3.5 hrs. Oh, and did I mention you make this drive with police escorts through the desert. When I read this little detail, I became concerned... a lot can happen in the 7 hours you're driving through the desert. If you wanted to torture me, this option would be a sure way to do it. lol!

In planning our Egypt trip, I made a great case for myself as to why it was better to fly to Abu Simbel. Much to my surprise, R wasn't buying it. He decided he wasn't going to fly (remember how I mentioned he dislikes flying) and would SKIP Abu Simbel. Yep, that's right he was just going to skip it all together. When I asked R if he'd regret it he said, "Absolutely Not". hmmm... Convincing someone with this attitude was going to be tough. And going to Abu Simbel alone wasn't something I'd thought about - I mean I thought R would definitely want to go. But going alone wasn't going to stop me. If you know me well, you know that once I set out to do something I become very focused & determined to make it happen. A little glitch would not stop me. But I had some reservations about how to tell S. I knew he wouldn't be thrilled about me going by myself but he knows me well... and he knew I'd get there whether he was comfortable with the idea or not. I'm not like R... I would regret it.

But once I told R I was going to Abu Simbel with or without him he began to give Abu Simbel more thought. The seed was planted. R began to do his own research which included in depth reading about the airlines as well their safety reports. I tried to reassure R that there were hundreds of people that flew to Abu Simbel each day so the plane wouldn't be tiny aircraft where they ask people to sit in different seats so the plane can be balanced. After much thought, R decided he would go but he warned me that if he felt uneasy after seeing the plane he'd  back out and I'd have to go by myself. I was happy he was at least giving it a chance. If he did get on the plane,  I promised to hold his hand through the flight. ;)

Flying to Abu Simbel meant we didn't have to watch up at 3am. Instead we caught the 9am flight.  Or at least that's what we thought. Our flight was delayed twice and we left Aswan much later than we thought. Since our flight was delayed I asked Mohammad if that meant we would have less time to see Abu Simbel. But he reassured me that I'd have plenty of time to see everything.

While we waited we noticed a group of women staring at us. Again, I thought. Were these women staring at R? Did they really think he looked like George Bush, Jr.? After much whispering and staring, one of the ladies walked in our direction only to get a better look at us . lol! But right when she passed us I caught her staring at us and I began to say, "I know who you think he looks like..." but the woman interrupted me and said, "YOU look exactly like my daughter! I can't believe the resemblance." They were actually staring at ME this whole time? lol! R & I both started laughing. All three women were American and were together on another tour. We talked for about an hour and I discovered the woman who approached me actually lives about 30 mins from my parents. It's amazing how small the world can be sometimes. These women were really sweet and R & I enjoyed talking to them. I even took photos with the woman from Florida so she could show her daughter who was resting at the hotel and decided not to go to Abu Simbel. Right before we boarded our plane, she gave me her personal card and inscribed it with a little note..."Come see your twin." ;)

After a short and very comfortable flight, we grabbed a taxi and drove about 5 minutes to Abu Simbel. The day was absolutely gorgeous. Being that Abu Simbel is located near the southern border of Sudan it was much warmer than it had been in Aswan. 

The closer we got to the temples, Mohammad asked us to cover our eyes. After a few more steps he told us we could look. And this is what we saw.

Standing in front of this temple was an incredible moment. The temple is massive in size. The facade is 33 meters (108.27 ft) high, and 38 meters (124.67 ft) wide, and guarded by four statues, each of which is 20 meters (65.62 ft) high.

The Temple of Ramses II is considered the grandest and most beautiful of the temples commissioned during the reign of Ramses II, and one of the most beautiful in Egypt. The construction for the temple complex started in approximately 1244 BCE and lasted for about 20 years, until 1224 BCE. The Temple of Ramses II was dedicated to Ra-Harakhty, Ptah and Amun, Egypt's three state deities of the time. 

This temple was one of six rock temples erected in Nubia during the long reign of Ramses II. The temples were built to impress Egypt's southern neighbors, and also to reinforce the status of Egyptian religion in the region. Historians say that the design of Abu Simbel expresses a bit of ego and pride in Ramses II. I'd have to agree considering all four statues represent Ramses II seating on a throne wearing the double crown of Upper and Lower Egypt. lol!

Several smaller figures are situated at the feet of the four statues, depicting members of the pharaoh's family. They include his mother Tuya, Nefertari, and some of his sons and daughters. Above the entrance there is a statue of a falcon-headed Ra-Harakhte, with the pharaoh shown worshiping on both sides of him.

The facade is topped by a row of 22 baboons, their arms raised in the air, supposedly worshiping the rising sun.

The interior of the temple is a magnificent sight. Photos are not allowed inside the temple unless of course you bribe the guards. Seeing other tourists bribe the guards was quite disheartening for me.

When you walk into the first hall of the temple there are eight large statues of the king as Osiris, four on each side, which also serve as pillars to support the roof. The walls are decorated in relief with scenes showing the king presenting prisoners to the gods as well as the king in battle, including the great battle of Kadesh on the north, and Syrian, Libyan and Nubian wars on the south wall.

Behind the first hall is a another hall with ritual offering scenes. In one scene both Ramses and Nefertari are shown with the sacred boats of Amun and Ra-Horakthy.

Towards the back of the temple there is a sanctuary which contains a small altar and in its rear niche are four statues. These statues represent Ramses II himself, and the three state gods of the New Kingdom - Ra-Horakhty of Heliopolis, Ptah of Memphis and Amun Re of Thebes. Amun was the king of the gods in the New Kingdom and during that time he was joined with the sun god Re to become Amun Re, the creator and father of the pharaohs. As you can imagine there were many temples dedicated to him.

What is fascinating about the sanctuary is that the axis of the temple is arranged so that on two days of the year,20 February and 20 October, the rising sun shoots its rays through the entrance and halls until it finally illuminates the sanctuary statues. These dates are allegedly the king's birthday and coronation day, but there is no evidence to support this. Due to the displacement of the temple, it is widely believed that this event now occurs one day later than it did originally.

The Temple of Nefertari, the smaller temple, is located to the north of the Great Temple of Ramses II. It was dedicated to Hathor, the goddess of love and beauty, and also to his favorite wife, Nefertari. The façade is adorned by six statues, four of Ramses II and two of Nefertari.

One unusual detail about this temple is how the six sculptures are the same height which indicates the esteem in which Nefertari was held.

R & I thought we'd be funny and pose as a modern day Ramses & Nefertari. lol!

What's really incredible about Abu Simbel is that  it was reconstructed in 1964. That's right... between 1964 and 1968 the entire site was cut into large blocks (up to 30 tons averaging 20 tons), dismantled and reassembled in a new location– 65 meters (213.25 ft) higher and 200 meters (.12 miles) back from the river. In 1959, an international campaign began to save the monument.

The temples were under threat from the rising waters of the Nile, a result from the construction of the Aswan High Dam. Both temples suffered from the rising water of Lake Nasser but with the help of UNESCO, they were saved and moved to their current location.

I think R & I could have easily spent the entire afternoon at Abu Simbel. We took our time and looked at everything. It was absolutely fascinating.

When we arrived at the airport, Mohammad checked us in and gave us our boarding passes. When I looked at my boarding pass, I noticed my name was incorrect. And by incorrect I mean COMPLETELY wrong. I asked R if his boarding pass was correct and it was. Thinking I received someone else's boarding pass, I expressed my concern to Mohammad. But he told me, "Don't worry. My boarding pass doesn't have my name either." hmmm? I found this really odd. I mean in the US we're warned that if the name on your ticket doesn't match your identification, they can refuse to let you on the plane. And here I was with a boarding pass that just didn't 't have a slight typo it was someone completely different name. 

As we waited in line, I saw the woman I met earlier from Florida and she said, "I think I have your boarding pass." "Really?" I said. But when I looked at the name it was someone else. I told her, "Your boarding pass doesn't have your name on it either." Now this was weird. But Mohammad explained that because the airlines have so many people flying in and out of Abu Simbel that this is just the way things are done. I suppose it explains why Mohammad didn't rush us at Abu Simbel. I guess we could have taken any flight back to Aswan.

When we boarded the plane I told R, " I bet you 90% of the people on this flight have the wrong boarding passes". We laughed about it but seriously if anything happened to our plane identifying the passengers would be an absolute nightmare. But I didn't want to think about it.

Our flight started out fine but shortly after we took off we began to experience some serious turbulence. R quickly grabbed my hand and closed his eyes. I began to feel guilty considering R was on this flight primarily because of me. I tried to reassure him & told him everything would be fine. I looked over at Mohammad and he didn't look good either. He immediately grabbed a bag as if he were about to get sick. And me? Well, I just looked away. I didn't want to get sick. I remained pretty calm but some morbid thoughts crept into my mind.

But thank god, we landed safely.

Aswan Birthday Wishes

Aswan is a lovely little city. Spotless streets, no traffic - everything runs at a slower pace. But don't be fooled, Aswan has a busy nightlife too. I definitely would have loved to stay in Aswan a day longer.

As R & I relaxed in our hotel room admiring the view, someone knocked at our door. "Who could that be?" we thought. "Room Service", the man announced. R & I looked at each other a bit puzzled since neither of us ordered room service. When we opened the door, a man came in with a birthday cake. It was R's birthday that day! Apparently, someone at the front desk noticed his date of birth when they looked at his passport or perhaps it was Lady Egypt who told them. It was a wonderful and thoughtful gesture!

This little sticker was on top of the table... a subtle clue for those who wanted to pray.

Before we met our new guide, R & I had lunch at the hotel. It was a gorgeous day!!

Sunny, blue skies, and a cool breeze in the air. I LOVED it! We had lunch outside and soaked up all the rays. It was such a welcomed change from the weather in Belgium.

After lunch, we met our guide, Mohammad, who would be with us for the next 5 days as we explored Upper Egypt. Like Ibrahim, Mohammad was also a licensed Egyptologist and extremely knowledgeable. I mean these guys KNOW their stuff. Although Ibrahim was a bit more experienced and very casual towards us where as Mohammad was much more serious.  He was very ambitious which I liked and he made it his priority to provide us with a memorable experience.

Our afternoon began with a trip to the High Dam. There are actually two dams in Aswan. The newest one, most commonly referred to as the High Dam was completed in 1970 and has had an enormous impact on the economy & culture of Egypt.

R & I by the Lake Nasser side.

Both dams were built to regulate river flooding, provide water storage for agriculture purposes and to generate electricity. Before the dams were built, the Nile River flooded every summer.

As Egypt's population grew and conditions changed, there came a desire to control the flood waters to both protect and support farmland and economically important cotton fields. Even though there are major benefits to damming the Nile it was has caused a number of environmental problems as well.

Our next stop was the Temple of Isis at Philae (also known as Philae Temple) on Agilka island. In order to get to the temple we took a short boat ride.

As we approached the temple, I was amazed at how perfect it looked considering it was underwater for so many years. Fortunately, the temple was rescued by a joint operation between the Egyptian government and UNESCO.

The whole island was surrounded with a dam and the interior was pumped dry. Every stone block of the temple complex was labeled and removed only to be assembled later, like a giant jigsaw puzzle, on the higher ground of Agilka island. The whole project took ten years. Amazing!!

 

R & I learned that the temple was dedicated to the goddess Isis, the wife of Osiris and mother of Horus. We quickly learned that these three characters dominated ancient Egyptian culture. But we focus on Isis who we learn is a very important figure in the ancient world. She is associated with funeral rites but as the enchantress who resurrected Osiris and gave birth to Horus she is also the giver of life, a healer and protector of kings. She was known as 'Mother of God' and was represented with a throne on her head. During the Roman period her cult spread throughout Greece and the Roman Empire.

 

Mohammad explained to us that the god Osiris was murdered and dismembered by his brother Seth. Learning of his death Osiris' wife, Isis, searches for his fragments, collects them, and with her magic powers brings Osiris back to life. They then conceive the god, Horus.

Osiris then becomes god of the under world and judge of the dead - who must answer to him for their deeds on Earth. Meanwhile, Isis gives birth to Horus and must protect her son, the young god. Later when Horus becomes an adult he avenges his father by defeating Seth in combat. The story is an incredible and one that I found very interesting.

Once Mohammad walked through the site with us pointing our various things, R & I went exploring.

The hieroglyphics are just incredible. I can just imagine how magnificent it must have looked in ancient times when the walls & columns were painted.

Near the Temple of Isis was a smaller temple. At the top of the columns were shaped like lotus flowers. How amazing this must have looked in ancient times.

Wondering through Philae Temple was really nice. We weren't rushed nor were there any large crowds. It felt great to casually walk through the temple and sit by the water - have a drink and take in the scenery.

By the time we left Philae the sun was beginning to set and it made everything glow a little brighter.

Later that night, Mohammad took R & I to a Nubian restaurant where we toasted to R's birthday. I snapped this photo just before we left.